The process of shawl weaving consists of making of reels from
Ruffle, Pashmina and Angora wool yarn
case of the pitloom, the warp is made manually by winding it around
peg- stands separated by a definite amount of distance. The drafting
and denting of the ends is done by pulling them through the thread
healds and the reed with the help of fingers. The warp is then
set onto the loom, its ends are tied and its tension adjusted
as per the requirement.
The warp for the fly shuttle flame loom is wound on the warping
machine. It is transferred to the warp beam under tension, which
is then put on the loom for drafting and denting. The warp ends
are drafted and dented with a reed hook, the loom tie-ups and
tension are re- adjusted and the loom is geared up for weaving.
The basic structure for the shawl is 2/2 twill woven on a straight
or pointed drafting order. The surface texture could be as follows:
- Straight lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to
give diagonal lines.
- Pointed lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to
give vertical zigzag.
- Straight lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to
give a horizontal wavy pattern.
- Pointed lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give
a diamond shaped structure.
The decorative border of the shawls is always woven in a basket
weave with the dove- tailing or slit- tapestry techniques. The
colored graph of the design to be woven is used as a reference
and the number of ends per design is considered.
Cut lengths of the colored acrylic wool threads are placed in
the warp in 2- 3 plys. The technique used to produce the pattern
is intertwining or the 'dove- tailing' technique also referred
as the tapestry weave.