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Processing of Kullu Shawls

The process of shawl weaving consists of making of reels from Ruffle, Pashmina and Angora wool yarn first.

Portion of a HandloomIn case of the pitloom, the warp is made manually by winding it around peg- stands separated by a definite amount of distance. The drafting and denting of the ends is done by pulling them through the thread healds and the reed with the help of fingers. The warp is then set onto the loom, its ends are tied and its tension adjusted as per the requirement.

The warp for the fly shuttle flame loom is wound on the warping machine. It is transferred to the warp beam under tension, which is then put on the loom for drafting and denting. The warp ends are drafted and dented with a reed hook, the loom tie-ups and tension are re- adjusted and the loom is geared up for weaving.

The basic structure for the shawl is 2/2 twill woven on a straight or pointed drafting order. The surface texture could be as follows:

  • Straight lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give diagonal lines.
  • Pointed lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give vertical zigzag.
  • Straight lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a horizontal wavy pattern.
  • Pointed lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a diamond shaped structure.

The decorative border of the shawls is always woven in a basket weave with the dove- tailing or slit- tapestry techniques. The colored graph of the design to be woven is used as a reference and the number of ends per design is considered.

Cut lengths of the colored acrylic wool threads are placed in the warp in 2- 3 plys. The technique used to produce the pattern is intertwining or the 'dove- tailing' technique also referred as the tapestry weave.

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